Sometimes dogs that live in a multi-pet household will have confidence issues if they are the
Omega (or submissive) dog in the pack. This is especially true if the Alpha dog is excessively
aggressive or dominant. In this situation, part of the solution lies in curbing the Alpha dog’s
behavior. But the trust and confidence building suggestions listed below typically are effective
in helping an Omega dog become less shy and submissive.

Abby lives with another dog, Ginger, who is the Alpha dog, so this could be part of the problem.
But Ginger is not aggressive toward Abby, and our trainers and pet care specialists felt that the
shyness was probably part of Abby’s personality as Dave has heard before. Some dogs are just
born more submissive and laid back. If this is reinforced as a puppy in the litter, it is probable
that the dog will grow to an adult that is cautious, reserved, and even fearful in some situations.
Many of these traits can be overcome, but it is likely that dogs that have been shy from birth will
retain aspects of this personality despite the most thorough and supportive training. The law
enforcement people concur with this assessment.
“When dogs are selected for our training, we test
them for shyness or overly aggressive behavior,”
Shane said. “Truth be told, we prefer the more
aggressive dogs. Usually we need this type of
personality and we are able to curb it a bit with
training. But a shy dog or one that lacks confidence is a danger to itself and others in our
situations. And experience has shown that it is very difficult to train that behavior out of a dog.”

No matter which training method you use, it is especially important to remain calm and pleasant
with shy dogs. Usually these dogs are deeply sensitive to their owners’ emotions and respond
poorly to anger and any type of negative discipline. The use of negative reinforcers is not
recommended for shy or under-confident dogs.

How To Deal With a Nervous or Shy Dog

1.) OBEDIENCE TRAINING
Here our old standby isn’t just one of many suggestions. Obedience training is essential for dogs
that are shy or lack confidence. Training her to sit, stay, heel, and all the other wonderful
activities that happen during obedience training give dogs a major boost of confidence. Once
they see that they can do something well and earn praise, they begin to feel more sure of
themselves and come out of their shells a little.

Think of how you feel when you start a new job or project. You may lack training or
direction and therefore be reluctant to act. But once you have someone show you how to do
things, and you get a chance to practice and prove that you can do it, you feel
much more confident. And being good at what you do impacts your whole outlook
on life. It’s the same for dogs. If they feel like they are good at their job, they
are happier, more relaxed, and secure. For shy dogs, the training activities
must happen outside the home. Traveling in cars, going new places, meeting new
people and dogs are all part of the training to help overcome shyness. If
your dog is exceptionally shy or sensitive, you may want to start with a
simple socializing class where the focus is on playing and interacting rather than
learning obedience. But don’t stop at socializing. Once your dog seems to be
feeling more comfortable in new surroundings, move on to obedience
training.

2.) PROTECT YOUR DOG’S PERSONAL SPACE
It is important that shy dogs have a place to call their own. Maybe it’s their crate, or a quiet
corner of a den or other room that is not right near the entryway. Keep new people and dogs
away from the pet’s area to help assure her that she is safe and secure.
Let the dog decide if she wants to be petted by visitors. Don’t allow them to chase after the
dog or corner her to get her to be still. Encourage people to sit down and pet the dog under the
chin or on the chest instead of towering over the dog and patting it on its head or back. These
actions can be intimidating to dogs, and the back is an especially sensitive area for female dogs.

3.) DON’T PET YOUR DOG TO TRY AND CALM IT WHEN IT’S NERVOUS
As pet owners who love our dogs, it’s natural to want to comfort a shy or nervous dog. But by
petting them, praising them or talking to them sweetly when they are exhibiting these types of
unwanted behaviors, we enforce the shyness. As difficult as it may be, you need to ignore the
behavior and act as if everything is just fine. The dog will take its cue from you and decide there
is no reason to be afraid or concerned.

If you have been teaching your dog obedience commands, you can try telling her to sit when
someone comes to the door, and then praise her when she responds correctly. The opportunity to
do something right and be rewarded for it will boost her confidence and help her feel prepared to
meet new situations. If your dog stays put or greets visitors praise her or give a treat.
This method applies to meeting new dogs, going new places, and trying new things. For
example, Tonia Heller described how going to the vet can be a frightening experience for pets.

She sees owners reinforce this fear by carrying dogs that normally walk on a leash, allowing
dogs to jump in their laps, and petting them when they begin to bark or whine. She recommends
rewarding the dog for walking through the office door, petting them when they are sitting
quietly, and treating the visit like any other outing.

Tonia cautions that it may be difficult to act as if everything is normal if the dog is seriously
ill or injured, but routine or non-emergency visits to the vet should be treated like a fun
adventure where the dog is rewarded for behaving. If you act scared or worried, the dog will
pick up on your emotions and respond accordingly. This is especially true for shy and sensitive
dogs that look to their owners for cues. If you have taken time to get your dog used to being
examined, by playing with her feet and ears, and making her stay calm while you groom her,
trips to the vet will be much less stressful for everyone.

4.) PEOPLE THERAPY
If the dog is afraid of people, recruit the help of three or four calm, mature people to help you
encourage our dog to interact with new people. Starting with just one person, have him or her sit
out in the yard and see if your dog will approach. The helper should have a treat or one of the
dog’s favorite play toys and should try to encourage the dog by calling her name in a soft, upbeat
tone while holding out the treat. If the dog approaches, she should be given the treat and some
petting, if she will allow it. The helper should avoid making direct eye contact with the dog for
the first few times, and should try to stay sitting as still as possible.

Continue to practice this with the same person until the dog responds positively. Then start
again with a new person. When your dog appears to be comfortable with these people, try
bringing them together in groups of two, then three, then four as your dog gains confidence. If
she seems overwhelmed, back off and try just the one person again for several days.
Your dog may come to expect that new people will always carry treats, and it’s not a bad idea
to keep a treat container near the front door for visitors to use. Once your dog overcomes her
shyness, you can reduce the treats, but you should still continue to reinforce the positive behavior
with a treat once in awhile. If you find that you are giving her a lot of treats, be sure to use
something nutritional and cut back on her daily food so she doesn’t gain weight.

5.) FREE PLAY WITH A DOG FRIEND
For dogs that are nervous or shy around people, it is important that they have canine friends to
interact with. Find a non-aggressive playmate with up to date vaccinations and an owner who is
willing to accompany their dog to a play session. Because this will be free play, where the dogs
are taken off the leashes and allowed to romp around as they wish, it should be done in a large
room or a fenced area.

While still on the leash, allow the dogs to get to know one another. Let them sniff and move
around a bit until it is clear that there will be no problems with aggression or fighting. Then
remove the leashes and let the dogs play. You can provide toys, but they should be new toys that
neither dog has an attachment to or feels ownership towards. If everything goes well, let the
dogs play for fifteen minutes the first time and gradually increase that to where you can let the
dogs go until they are tired out. If either dog appears to become over stimulated and too wound
up, stop the activity for that day.

As the playtime increases, have the other dog’s owner attempt to pet your pooch. You can
also try having both owners interact with the dogs in a game of fetch, Frisbee, or some other nonconfrontational activity. Praise and reward your dog when she responds with confidence.

6.) YAWN A LOT
Several trainers mentioned that they have read that yawning is supposed to calm dogs. Because
yawning is a sign of relaxation and security, it tells your dog that there is nothing frightening or
concerning about the situation.

When visitors come to the house, have them sit on the floor and yawn repeatedly. They
should not make eye contact with the dog. Repeat this activity throughout the course of a ten or
fifteen minute conversation and see if the dog relaxes or comes over to be petted.
One pet owner who tried this approach reported that at first the dog looked at her like she was
crazy, but then it began wagging its tail and eventually came over and rolled on its back to be
petted. She added that the dog even yawned a few times herself. Apparently yawning is
contagious for canines too!

7.) CREATE AN OBSTACLE COURSE FOR YOUR DOG
Set up a small obstacle course in your back yard. Include a flapping tarp pinned to the
clothesline, landscaping bricks in a path on the lawn, a chair covered with a sheet; anything that
your dog is likely to shy away from. Then, with
your pet on a leash, walk through, over, around, and
under the objects on the course while trying not to
pause or anticipate the dog’s reactions. If you act
like there is nothing to be afraid of, your dog will sense that and feel more confident. If she
hesitates or shies away from something, don’t praise her. Keep walking until she is behaving
normally and then reward her.

As your dog grows accustomed to the strange, new, obstacles and accepts them without
hesitation, praise her and give her a treat. You must repeat this exercise regularly, changing the
types of objects in your obstacle course until your dog approaches things cautiously but
confidently. You may eventually want to have a family member walk out slowly from behind an object,
bang gently on a pan, or provide some other new feature or action, but there should be no
sudden movements and no startling noises. You don’t wan to make the dog more afraid.
This practice often can be turned into a fun family activity, as children love to help figure out
what devices and obstacles can be rigged up for your dog. Use some common sense with this.
You don’t want to present your dog with any truly frightening experiences that will do more
harm to her confidence. And never let young children be responsible for walking your dog
through the obstacle course. You need to be in charge to ensure that it is a positive training
method for your dog.

8.) TAKE YOUR DOG ON AN OUTING
You can follow the above suggestions with your dog, but if she never leaves the house, you are
overlooking an important part of her development. And with shy dogs, it is especially important
to get them out of their comfort zone (your house) and out into the world to face new adventures
and interactions. Even if your outing simply consists of a car ride to the store to get a gallon of
milk, this will help your dog become more comfortable with new situations. Be sure to provide
the dog with appropriate air flow and shelter from the sun if it is hot outside.
Praising your dog during the drive and giving a treat when you get back help to reward the
dog and convince it that traveling is fun. Try to take at least two trips each week to provide your
dog enough exposure to new things.

9.) USE THE “LET’S GO” OR “FAST TIME” COMMAND
In addition to bringing your dog on an outing, you can also take her on walks around the
neighborhood, at the park, or on a trail system. It is important to keep her on a leash so you can
supervise and be certain that she doesn’t run off, get injured or some other traumatizing
experience. If you dog shies away from things while on a walk or begins to get agitated, act as
calm as possible and keep walking, or teach your
dog the “Let’s go” command .
This command consists of picking up your
normal walking speed to a jog or a fast sprint. The
point is to take your dog’s mind off her fear, and
also to help her get away from a frightening situation, but on your terms, not hers. The “Fast
time” command, which is basically the same thing and is often taught as part of obedience
training heeling exercises, can be used instead.
When you are away from the intimidating object, stop your dog and praise her and clap your
hands, jump up and down, or somehow show that you are having fun. You can practice this
command in your yard so that the dog is familiar with it before you head out on a walk. Be sure
to praise your dog for any positive behavior during your walk and make a big deal of her bravery
when you get home.

10.) MASSAGE THERAPY
Some trainers and pet care providers recommend trying massage therapy on your dog. (You
might need it too as a reward for your patience and efforts in training your shy dog.) In addition
to teaching a dog to enjoy being touched, massage therapy can calm a nervous dog and help her
to develop trust.

You will either need to acclimate your dog to the massage therapist or learn the techniques
yourself. The initial investment for a training class to learn the skills will likely pay off in the
end as you can use your massage abilities in other situations also, such as for a dog with sore
muscles, a pup with stress issues, or simply as a form of reward for your dog after a long day of
training or competition.

Like many other behaviors, most owners do not mind if their dogs chew appropriate chew toys
such as bones, rawhide, or hard rubber toys. It is inappropriate chewing of furniture, shoes, rugs, and
other non-toy items that causes problems. Dogs may chew when they are lonely or bored.

They may also chew when they are anxious and under stress. If this chewing relieves the
condition it will most likely be repeated again and again because it is self-reinforcing. Until your
dog has learned appropriate chewing behaviors, confine him when you are not able to supervise
his actions. Make sure he gets plenty of exercise and attention.

Before trying some of the training tips and tricks, there are some preventative things dog owners
can do to try and alleviate a chewing problem. First, puppy owners need to accept the fact that
young dogs will chew on things. Breeds like Retrievers are especially known for this and may
be avid chewers all their lives. It can take up to two years before they can be trusted not to chew
on non-toy items. But accepting doesn’t mean that you have to allow your dog to destroy your
house and possessions.

Start by puppy proofing your home, even if your dog is past the teething stage. Puppy proofing includes:

picking up any throw rugs
putting shoes, clothing, papers and plants away or out of reach
covering or hiding electrical wires
closing doors or using gates to keep dogs in their space and out of off limits areas

Unfortunately, the joint chewing escapades of Lucy and Riley added additional reinforcement for
both dogs’ chewing habits. Not only is it fun, but now another dog is doing it too, which makes
Riley think it must be okay. Consequently, Victoria has two dogs that need to learn that chewing
is not acceptable.

The most important thing in teaching dogs appropriate chewing behavior is to supervise them so
that you can react immediately when they grab something that is not allowed. If you try to
correct the behavior after the fact, the dog will not make the connection between your displeasure
and the photo album he chewed up three hours earlier. And you will be a lot less
angry or frustrated if you can catch the dog before it destroys something. Dogs respond much
more quickly and positively to any training activities when they are conducted in a calm, upbeat
manner.

How To Stop a Dog or Puppy From Chewing On Things

1.) USE A STERN VERBAL COMMAND/REDIRECT
When you see the dog grab an item or begin to chew on the chair leg, issue a stern, but not
overly loud, verbal command such as “No!” or “Leave it!” It is helpful to redirect the dog’s
attention to an appropriate chew toy and praise him when he chews on the appropriate object.
This helps him make the connection between chewing and objects that are allowed.
As your dog begins to show signs of appropriate chewing behavior, gradually give him more
unsupervised freedom. Check on him after 5 or 10 minutes and slowly increase the amount of
time he is left alone. If he resumes his destructive chewing, back up.

2.) USE APPROPRIATE METHODS WHEN TAKING ITEMS AWAY FROM THE DOG
If your dog does not drop the item when you give him a verbal command, you need to take the
item away. It’s important that it not become a game. If the dog won’t let go, spray him with a
squirt bottle or pry his mouth open gently with your fingers.
Don’t make the dog bring the item to you. Go to the dog and remove the object from his
mouth. One trainer described a pet owner whose dog began to shy away from playing fetch.
After extensive questioning and a lucky guess, the
trainer realized the problem was with the method
used to correct the dog’s chewing habit.
When the owner caught the dog chewing on
something, she would command the dog to bring the item to her and then proceed to scold the
animal. The dog was being taught that the fetching, not the chewing was the bad behavior, and it
began to avoid fetching even allowable items for fear of being disciplined.

3.) PRACTICE THE “LEAVE IT” COMMAND
Once your dog begins to acknowledge the command to “Leave it”, you can practice this exercise
with other objects including balls, Frisbees, chew toys and other allowable items. When you
want the dog to stop playing with the particular item, tell him to “Leave it” and make him walk
away from the item or pick it up yourself and give the dog a treat when he obeys. This is
different from the command you use when you want the dog to give you the fetch toy to be thrown again.

4.) LIMIT THE NUMBER OF CHEW TOYS
Too many toys to choose from can create confusion about which things are okay to chew. While
it is important to have safe, fun, chew toys, you don’t want to overdo it. Most of our trainers and
pet care providers suggest no more than ten toys out at a time. They also recommend rotating
the dog’s toys to avoid boredom. Dogs are smart enough to figure out that the toy they have
been chewing for months might not be as interesting as the new, smelly, leather shoes you just
bought. See our Products List in the book’s appendix for a list of recommended chew toys.
The use of appropriate chew toys is also important. Giving a dog an old shoe or torn up sock
can confuse matters. Many dogs have trouble understanding that one shoe is old and the other is
new, or that the empty soda bottle is fine to poke teeth holes in, but that chewing the full bottle
will cause problems.

5.) USE A NOISEMAKER TO DISTRACT THE DOG AND PRODUCE A NEGATIVE REINFORCER
This method has been described already in this book as a means of addressing barking and
digging issues. It consists of filling a soda can with pennies or pebbles, or using a loud whistle
or horn to startle the dog and distract him from the unwanted behavior.
This tool is effective for several behavior problems because many dogs do not like the noise,
and they associate it as a negative enforcer. They learn to avoid the behavior because they want
to avoid the noise. It is important to not overdo the use of this method or the dog will become
accustomed to the noise and not associate it as negative.
Victoria has been able to use this method effectively when she sees Riley chewing on
something, but she still needs to find a way to convince him not to chew on inappropriate objects
at all.

6.) USE A CHEWING DETERRENT
Spray Bitter Apple or similar chewing deterrent product on furniture legs, electrical wires, and
other reachable objects in which the dog has shown an interest. The effectiveness of the product
often depends on the individual dog’s response to the active agent in the solution, so try more
than one brand if needed. See our Products List in the book’s appendix for information on these
kinds of pet care items. This is a simple, inexpensive means of training a dog to chew, even
when you can’t be there to supervise. Unfortunately, some dogs seem unaffected by these
products and will require a different method.

Some owners pointed out that they also wanted their dogs to bite if a burglar came into the house
or another dog was threatening their child. Others in this group felt that biting is such a natural
part of what dogs do that to take that out of the animal would be to force it to behave in a way
that is unnatural.

How To Stop a Dog From Biting or Nipping

1.) ACT LIKE A MOTHER DOG
A mother dog is very effective in training her offspring to bite and play appropriately. Instead of
using verbal commands that may be way beyond a new puppy’s learning abilities, trainers and
pet care professionals suggest using the same motions and reactions a mother dog uses with her
pups.

When the dog bites too hard, make a sharp squealing noise or say the word “Ouch!” in a loud,
high-pitched voice. This expression of pain or indignation will send a message to the dog in a
language she uses every day. Although this squeal will likely stop the dog initially, she often
resumes biting after a brief pause. When this occurs, growl sharply at the dog, showing your
teeth, and then get up and walk away. This sends a
message to the dog that says if she insists on biting
too hard, then there will be no playtime.

If the dog still doesn’t get the message and chases
after you continuin g to bite, grab her by the scruff and give a sharp shake, then continue to walk
away. You can say the command, “No bite” or something similar in a low, growly voice to help
get the point across.

2.) ALPHA ROLL
For dogs that bite too hard during play or who won’t stop biting in response to other methods,
give the dog an Alpha roll, which consists of flipping her over on her back and holding her until
she calms down and quits biting. Scold the dog in a deep voice, or tell her “No bite” while you
do this. Be careful not to flip the dog, especially a young puppy, too hard. You are forcing the
dog to be submissive, not trying to inflict pain.

3.) AVOID TUG OF WAR GAMES AND WRESTLING THAT INVOLVE BITING
Tug of war and mock attacks encourage the dog to use her teeth inappropriately. In tug of war,
the harder a dog bites, the more likely she will end up with the toy, especially if she shakes her
head a bit while biting. This is very dangerous behavior to encourage in a dog, particularly those
who are closer to the alpha end of the pecking order.

4.) APPLY PRESSURE TO THE TOP OF THE DOG’S MUZZLE
Wrap your fingers around the dog’s jaws and apply firm pressure to the top of the muzzle while
saying “NO” or a similar verbal command in a low tone of voice to simulate growling. This
technique is also similar to the actions a mother dog would take with one of her pups.

5.) USE TABASCO, LEMON JUICE, OR OTHER FLAVORED DETERRENT
As suggested for excessive barking problems, this method of applying a distasteful substance to
your skin or directly on the dog’s tongue can be effective. Timing is key, and using a verbal
command in combination will eventually eliminate the need for the flavored deterrent. Several
commercial products can be safely used on human skin or on gloves.

Because walking on a leash is an important form of exercise for many dogs and is often required
by city ordinance, it is important to teach your dog to walk nicely or heel when on the leash.

How To Stop Dogs From Pulling On a Leash

1.) CALM THOSE PRE-WALK JITTERS
If your dog gets too excited when you put on her collar or go to get the leash, you will first need
to teach her to calm down. If things are out of control before the walk even begins, you are
setting the tone for the rest of the activity.
If your dog knows to sit and stay, give her this
command before putting on the leash and don’t
give in until she does it. At the very least, your
dog should stand still and let you get situated. If
she does not comply, you do not put the leash on
and the walk is postponed. You can’t give in
because then you will be reinforcing the negative behavior. If your dog is especially hyper when
preparing for a walk, you may need to plan ahead and anticipate that this could take some time.
Don’t wait for the last minute to begin preparing for a potty break walk or you may end up with
an accident.
By insisting on a calm demeanor before putting on the collar or leash, you start out in control
and teach the dog that you expect her to behave in a certain manner while on the leash.

2.) DON’T LEAVE THE HOUSE UNTIL YOUR DOG IS CALM
This is simply and extension of tip #1. If the dog sits still while you put the leash on, but then
goes crazy, jumping and pulling all over, you still don’t have control and shouldn’t leave for the
walk yet. Patiently stand still and let your dog romp around until she realizes that you aren’t
going anywhere with her acting like that.
It may take awhile but she will eventually calm down and you can praise her and proceed with
the walk. But if she begins jumping or lunging, stop and make her sit until she is calm again.
Then praise her and move on. At first, you may not get beyond the sidewalk, but your dog will
eventually learn that nothing is going to happen until she calms down. If you continue to walk
while your dog pulls on the lead, you are teaching her that the behavior is okay. You must be
firm and consistent if you want her to learn quickly.
For large, powerful dogs, or extreme lungers, a mouth harness will give you more control
without hurting the dog and making her fearful of collars and walks in general. Remember, this
is supposed to be fun for both you and your dog.

3.) TEACH YOUR DOG TO HEEL
The “Heel” command means that the dog walks on your right side with her head near your knee.
The leash is slack, and the dog responds to the pace you set, slowing and speeding up as needed
in order to stay in the heel position. She watches your knee and moves with you as you turn
corners or weave through people and other obstacles.

To begin teaching this command, say your dog’s name and then the word “heel” and step
forward. If she does not follow, give a jerk on the leash or pat your leg. A small treat held just
in front of her nose can also work well. When your dog reaches the heel position next to your
knee, praise her and give her the treat but keep on walking. If your dog moves too far ahead or
behind, repeat the command and give another corrective tug on the leash.

You do not want to give the dog a treat every time she strays from the heel position and then
returns. She only gets the treat when she stays in the correct area for a certain amount of time.
At first this may be several seconds, but it should gradually increase to minutes or entire walks.

4.) TRY A DIFFERENT COLLAR OR A HARNESS
Some people have had success with prong collars, but we prefer less painful methods. As their
name implies, prong collars have sharp spikes of metal that push into the dog’s skin or give him
a sharp pinch when he pulls to hard on the lead. Our trainers felt that there was too much
opportunity for this type of collar to be misused. And they also felt that adding pain to a heeling
exercise makes the dog want to avoid the activity all together.

Choker collars have been in use for years, and if treated properly, can be an effective tool for
teaching your dog not to pull on the lead. If you are using a regular collar, you may want to try a
chain choker, but be sure to ask a trainer or veterinarian for advice on how to use it. If you jerk
too hard on the collar, you can damage your dog’s throat or airway. The point of a choker collar
is to let the dog decide to back off the leash when it feels its airway getting restricted.
One of the most recommended products to help curb a dog’s pulling is The Gentle Leader®
headcollar, developed by Dr. R. K. Anderson, DVM, a well-know animal behavior expert, and
Ruth E. Foster, past President of the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. The
two came together to develop a humane and effective way to manage one’s dog without all the pulling,
jerking, and power struggles.

The Leader uses two soft nylon straps, one that fits high at the top of the neck, and the other
that fits loosely and comfortably across the base of the dog’s nose. Although it looks somewhat
like a muzzle, the Leader only holds your dog’s mouth shut if you pull on the leash. Otherwise
he is free to eat, drink, pant, and any other normal behavior that requires him to have his mouth
open.

The Leader is based on basic dog behavior principles. The strap over the muzzle mimics an
alpha dog’s gentle muzzle bite used to demonstrate dominance. Also, any dog with his nose
pushed down is put in a more submissive position. This helps with general obedience as well as
deterring the dog from pulling on the lead.

The strap at the back of the neck applies pressure in the same location that mother dogs use
when picking up their pups by the scruff of the neck. The dog’s natural instinct is to relax, rather
than pull, making lead training much easier and avoiding any choking or sharp jerks. Several
owners in our group use the Gentle Leader and have had success with it. Dave explained that it
gives him gentle control over Abby without causing her fear or discomfort that would add to her
insecurity. For more aggressive dogs, the Leader not only reduces their pulling on the leash, it
keeps them from barking or biting if the leash is held tight.

Dogs also touch noses or sniff when greeting each other, so it is natural for our dogs to want to
see our faces. We can sometimes prevent them from jumping up simply by bending down to
greet them. But you will need to be careful in case the dog still jumps up and hits you in the nose
or scratches your face. If you can grab a hold of the dog first and keep his feet on the floor,
this will be safer.

It’s best to discourage jumping up right from the start, but even with an adult dog, it’s not too
late to teach it more appropriate ways of greeting people and expressing excitement.
Unfortunately pet owners often encourage the dog’s jumping by reacting to it inconsistently.
When we come home from a particularly demanding day at the office, we welcome the dog’s
attention and let him jump up and lick us. We are happy that at least someone appreciates us and
is glad to see us.

But when we have our good clothes on, or small children come to visit, the dog is reprimanded
for his jumping. He often doesn’t understand what the owner is angry about, especially since
just the other day jumping was fine. So the dog will continue to jump or even increase its actions
to see if that makes things better. The first step in teaching dogs to not jump up is to enforce the
same rules every time.

This is also true for dogs that jump up on counters, although the reason for this bad behavior is
different from the reason dogs jump on people. Dogs that jump on counters are either after food,
or they are bothered by the fact that they can’t see what is up there and their curiosity gets the
better of them. With curious dogs, you will see this type of behavior in other areas. Debbie
described how Indy follows her around the house. He is not panicked, like a dog with separation
anxiety, he is simply curious. He wants to know what is going on, and he doesn’t want to miss
out on anything.

If a dog is jumping up on counters you will have to provide negative consequences for the
behavior in order to deter the dog. If he has successfully acquired food from counter tops in the
past, that has been a powerful reinforcer and it may take awhile to overcome that conditioning.
For curious dogs, it will simply be a matter of making jumping up on the counters not worth the
effort.

Stopping Dogs From Jumping Up On People

1.) DON’T REWARD THE DOG FOR JUMPING UP
If your dog jumps on you, do not pet him or touch him
in an encouraging manner. Firmly but gently push him down off you and refuse to pay him any
more attention until he stays down. Then praise him or give a treat. (Don’t let the dog see the
treat first or this may cause the jumping). You will need to be sure other people understand the
rule as well, or the dog may refrain from jumping on you, but think it’s okay to tackle everybody else.

2.) TEACH YOUR DOG AN APPROPRIATE WAY TO GREET YOU
Most dog owners like having their dogs greet them, they just don’t want to be bowled over or
have their clothes ruined. By teaching the dog an appropriate method of greeting you and other
people that come to visit or that you meet while out walking, you allow your dog to express his
happiness without becoming obnoxious.
A Sit-Stay combination works well. The dog is still within reach for us to pet him, but he is
sitting calmly and waiting for us to approach him. Some people allow the dog to walk up and
nuzzle their hand or shake hands as long as they remain on the floor. Whichever action works
best for you and is easy for your dog to learn is fine. The Sit-Stay combination is taught in basic
obedience and used for a number of training activities and forms of behavior modification.

3.) TEACH YOUR DOG TO JUMP UP ON COMMAND
If you want your dog to jump up sometimes so you can pet him and cuddle him without having
to bend down or get on your hands and knees, you can teach him to jump up on command. Pat
your stomach while saying the verbal command you wish to use, such as “Hup” or “Up.” When
your dog jumps up, you can pet him and tell him what a good dog he is. But you should also
have a command that signals it is time to get down. “Off” or “Enough” work well, but you
should avoid the word “Down” if you use this to tell you dog to lie down. By teaching your dog
when it is okay to jump up, you also teach it when not to behave in this manner.

4.) BEAT YOUR DOG TO THE PUNCH, SO TO SPEAK
When your dog begins to move toward you to jump up, take a couple steps forward and close in
on him. This will usually stop the dog for a few moments and you can take a hold of his collar
and use pressure to keep his feet on the floor while you pet him and praise him. If he succeeds in
jumping up, give him a verbal command to get down and don’t pet him until he does.

5.) STEP GENTLY ON YOUR DOGS BACK TOES
Some trainers and pet owners have had success in teaching a dog to stay down by gently
stepping on his back his back toes when it has its front feet up on you. This needs to be done
carefully to avoid injuring the dog, and should not be used at all for shy or nervous dogs. You
also have to be careful that it doesn’t become a game with you trying to catch the dog’s toes
while he has fun trying to avoid your feet.

6.) FIRMLY KNEE YOUR DOG IN THE CHEST
When your dog begins to jump on you, raise your knee and firmly, but gently tap him in the
chest while giving a verbal command instructing him to get down. Once all four feet are on the
ground, you can praise and pet the dog. If he begins to jump again, back off and raise your knee
if necessary.

The same cautions apply to this technique as with stepping on the dogs back toes. If the thump from
your knee is unpleasant, the dog will learn to avoid coming into contact with you where you can reach
him, but he may start jumping from behind or lunging in and grabbing your clothes with his teeth.
If you have a high-energy dog or one that is very playful or used to rougher play, this technique
may not work well. Any correction that involves physically reprimanding the dog needs to be done
in a calm and controlled manner.

7.) GRAB YOUR DOG’S PAWS AND HOLD THEM TIGHTLY
When your dog jumps on you, grab a paw in each hand and hold them tightly until your dog
begins to struggle. Then gently push him down while giving your verbal command to get off.
Although this method causes your dog discomfort, we are more comfortable with it than with the
two previous suggestions because it is easier for the pet owner to control the amount of pressure
applied to the dog’s paws. With toe stepping or kneeing the dog in the chest, there is the
potential to lose your balance and really nail the dog or to accidentally step too hard. Any
correction that involves physically reprimandi ng the dog needs to be done in a calm and
controlled manner.

Tips for dogs that jump up on counters

8.) MAKE THE COUNTERS UNINTERESTING
Perhaps the easiest way to keep your dog from jumping on the counters is to keep fun things like
food and towels or other chewable items off the countertop. Some of this is simply common
sense. If you set a plate of hamburger patties on the edge of the counter and go outside to light
the grill, leaving the dog alone to guard the burgers, you are basically asking for trouble. If the
burgers are there when you come back, you either have a mighty well-trained dog or a
Dachshund that can’t reach past the floorboards!

9.) USE BAIT MIXED WITH FLAVORED DETERRENT
If your dog has learned that good food can be snatched from the counter, you will need to teach
him that not everything that comes off the counter is good to eat. Take a chunk of hotdog, slice
it open and put a few shakes of Tabasco or hot pepper inside. Set it near the edge of the counter
and wait out of site for your dog to get a good taste of it before giving it a firm “No” or “Off”
command. It is important that the dog dislikes the flavored deterrent or you could end up
reinforcing the behavior. If your dog does not react negatively the first time, do not repeat this
training method. But it may only take one time to convince the dog that taking food off the counter is
not a wise idea.

10.) USE NOISE TO CREATE A NEGATIVE CONSEQUENCE
If your dog is known to grab towels off the counter, put a pile of spoons on top of the towel.
When the dog grabs the towel, the spoons will fall on the floor and make a frightening noise,
which will likely make the dog think twice the next time.

You can also hide around the corner with a noisemaker, such as a rattle can or horn, and
startle the dog when it jumps up on the counter. Try to be sure the dog doesn’t see you, and
definitely don’t start laughing or make a game out of the exercise.

Some people purchase action activated buzzers or beepers that send a laser beam of light
across the top of the counter and go off when the dog breaks the beam by jumping up. Either the
dog eventually learns to stay down, or he becomes accustomed to the noise and begins to ignore
it. But the nice thing about the beepers is that it also alerts you to the fact that the dog is on the
counter, and you can go scold him immediately (and perhaps save the T-bone steak you daringly
set on the counter to breathe before grilling).

Puppies of any breed are also more inclined to dig. It is part of their exploring and learning
about the world around them. Some pups naturally outgrow this activity, while others need to be
taught that it is not an acceptable behavior. This was part of the problem in Whitney’s situation.
She didn’t know her owners wanted her to stop digging until they started to verbalize their
displeasure. And it was important that they scold her at the time of the digging, not when they
came home and found the big holes. Dogs need close association between the bad behavior and
the corrective action in order to make the connection.

Breed and age considerations aside, your dog may have lots of reasons for digging. Because
there are so many causes and since this is a very common behavior problem, we have compiled a
number of possible solutions. Some of them may be dependant on the initial cause of the
behavior, which may not be immediately apparent. You may need to try several methods to find
one that works. In most cases, it is simply a matter of you doing things differently, rather than
modifying your dog’s behavior.

Stopping Problems With Digging Dogs

1.) SPEND MORE TIME WITH YOUR DOG
The dog is left alone too much. This can cause loneliness, nervousness and anxiety. Increasing
their time spent with you and inside the house should help overcome this problem.

2.) PROVIDE ADEQUATE SHELTER FROM THE WEATHER
Dogs that are left outside tend to dig to create a shelter or den for cooling off. This is also an
issue for dogs during the winter months as they look for a place to stay warm. If this is the case
at your house, create a shady spot and provide a shelter in a cooler location. A doggy door into
the house or a garage out of the weather often solves this issue.

3.) EXERCISE YOUR DOG MORE
Digging is fun for dogs and uses up excess energy. Many times even a dog that does not
normally dig will suddenly pick up this bad behavior if it hasn’t gotten enough exercise. If your
dog is naturally more active or nervous, she is more likely to dig if under-exercised.

4.) GIVE YOUR DOG A BIGGER AREA
Dogs dig to get out of an enclosure or to make their dens bigger. Your dog may be tearing up the
ground in an effort to gain more living space. Even smaller dogs need room to run and play if
they are going to be enclosed for extended periods of time. Mandy did not indicate the size of
Whitney’s kennel area, but the dimensions of those purchased at Home Depot and other home
improvement centers are often 6 feet by 6 feet. This is too small for a dog to be in all day, and if
you put the kennel on a dirt surface, you are basically asking for digging problems.

5.) EVALUATE YOUR DOG’S DIET
Soil contains vitamins and minerals. If you dog is eating too many table scraps or a nutritionally
inferior dog food, she may be searching in the dirt for those things that are missing from her diet.
A veterinarian can help you determine if a dog is getting its nutritional needs met. “We can look
at the coat and its weight and that sort of thing,” Tonia Heller explains. Even a dog’s eyes, teeth,
and toenails are indicators of its overall health.

6.) FOCUS ON REGULAR OBEDIENCE TRAINING
A dog with little or no obedience training has not learned how to restrain her instincts. Basic
obedience training can give the dog the understanding and beginning abilities needed to control
impulsive behavior. Training can be conducted at home following an informed, daily schedule
or by attending a class and using the techniques taught by the trainer. The digging problems will
tend to decrease and then stop altogether as the obedience training continues.

7.) USE A NOISEMAKER TO CREATE A NEGATIVE CONSEQUENCE
This is essentially the same technique used to stop excessive barking. Watch your dog while she
is out in the yard or kennel. Hide behind the curtains or a couch and wait for her to begin digging.
As soon as her claws hit the dirt, use a foghorn, loud whistle, or some other tool to
make a noise your dog will find distracting and unpleasant.

You will need to do this several times and be consistent about it to help your dog make the
connection between digging and the negative consequence. It is important that you not use your
own voice and that you stay hidden when using the horn or whistle. Many dogs misbehave
because they want a reaction from you and they don’t care if it is negative. If the dog realizes
you are behind the noisemaking, you could inadvertently encourage the digging behavior.

8.) PLACE A BARRIER IN THE GROUND WHERE YOUR DOG DIGS
If your dog consistently digs in the same spot or type of area, bury a piece of plastic sheeting or
snow fence about two inches beneath the surface of the dirt. When your dog’s feet touch the
barrier, it will create an unpleasant or startling sensation that will likely cause her to stop.

9.) GIVE YOUR DOG A SANDBOX OR OTHER APPROVED DIGGING AREA
If your dog is a breed type known for digging, or if you have tried other methods with no
success, you may just want to accept that your dog is going to dig, and focus on teaching her
WHERE to dig. This is similar to housebreaking in that the dog needs to learn where a certain
behavior is acceptable.

Create a clearly defined area with boards or some other divider material and fill it with dirt or
sand. When you catch your dog digging, immediately bring her to the designated area and
encourage her to dig by scratching the dirt or sand with your own hands. If this doesn’t work
you can move the dog’s paws or bury something and encourage the pup to dig for it. Praise your
dog when she digs in the correct area. This training method can seem contradictory to pet
owners who are trying to teach their dogs NOT to dig. But sometimes we just have to face the
fact that dogs will be dogs and make a compromise.

Most dog owners want their dog to bark if he hears someone at the door or sees a stranger
entering the yard. Dogs are natural warning devices and can be an effective crime deterrent.

Many burglars and thieves have admitted to avoiding or leaving a home if they hear or see a dog.
And the law enforcement officers say that just hearing that the canine unit is on site is often
enough to make people give up or stop the illegal activity. So it is not a bad thing to have a dog
that barks. And a pooch that barks when he needs to go outside helps avoid accidents caused by
an owner who didn’t see the dog waiting by the door.

However, barking should stop when the dog is commanded to do so. Also, dogs that bark when
their owners are gone can be quite annoying to others, and may result in bad relations with
neighbors or even nuisance calls to law enforcement. So barking must be controlled. There are
several options to try but one thing that will not work is shouting.

Yelling at your dog can often make the problem worse. If a dog is barking at a stranger going by
and you yell at him to be quiet, he will assume you are “barking” at them too. He will decide
that if you are barking, it must be the right thing to do, and he will just bark more. If the dog is
barking because he is stressed or frightened, yelling will only intensify these emotions and cause
the dog to escalate. Some dogs will bark if they want attention. They don’t care if you are
angry, as long as you are focusing on them.

If your dog barks at you when you are on the phone, feeding your family, watching TV, or some
other activity that doesn’t involve him, you have a dog that barks for attention. By stopping your
activity to yell at him, you are giving him the attention that he seeks. Many of us have observed
similar behavior from small children. A child falls and bangs her knee. She looks around and
seeing nobody, runs to where a parent is before letting out blood-curdling screams of pain. Is it
really about the bumped knee, or is it about getting some love and attention?

Some things to think about before considering training solutions

A dog that is tired from playing and exercise tends to be content and sleepy, not nervous or
hyper. They are more likely to nap instead of bark. If you are not spending enough time with
your dog each day, you need to address this situation before you can realistically expect any
training methods to be effective. Dogs are pack animals and need to spend time with the other
members of their group. As we have said before, people who cannot spend at least an hour or
two giving their dog undivided attention should consider whether they have the time or
commitment level needed to own a dog.

You also need to be sure all your dog’s physical needs are met. A dog will bark to convey
hunger, thirst, discomfort, and even pain, in some situations. Simply ensuring that your pet’s
basic needs are being met may solve the barking problem. But if you have provided for the
dog’s needs and the situation persists, perhaps one of the following methods will help.
Because barking is so instinctual and self-rewarding for dogs, it can be difficult to stop and
requires more time, training, and patience than many other behavior problems. Fortunately, we
have compiled a large list of possible solutions. It is best to find one approach that fits well with
your dog’s personality and your living situation, then stick with that method rather than trying
several different techniques at once or in rapid succession. Throwing too many things at a dog at
one time will overwhelm him and add to his anxiety.

The best way to stop this type of behavior from reoccurring is to associate it with a negative
reinforcement. Effective negative reinforcements vary from dog to dog depending upon several factors
including breed, age, device, and timing. Choice of methods might also depend on
whether you are home when the dog is barking.

How To Stop Too Much Dog Barking

WHEN YOU ARE HOME…

1.) USE A VERBAL COMMAND
When the dog barks, say “Quite!” or “Enough!” in a sharp, stern voice. The idea is to show
displeasure and distract or even startle your dog so that he associates unwanted barking with a
negative response. You need to use the same command each time, and be consistent. Only offer
the command once and then be ready to follow through immediately with another negative
enforcer if the dog does not stop barking when you tell him to. Consider one of the suggestions
below.

2.) GIVE A SHARP JERK ON THE COLLAR OR LEASH
If your dog is barking while on the leash, give the leash a sharp jerk. Not hard enough to hurt the
dog, but with enough force to get his attention and interrupt the barking. Repeat the verbal
command at the same time.
If your dog is not on the leash, grab his collar or the scruff of his neck, give a firm shake and
repeat the verbal command. Again, be careful not to poke or pinch the dog or shake too hard.
You just want to get his attention, not cause him any pain. Some dogs get used to this or are just
too excited to be distracted by the leash check. You may have to try something more surprising
or distracting.

3.) TEACH YOUR DOG AN ALTERNATIVE BEHAVIOR
For dogs that bark at people passing by or coming to the door, you can try teaching them an
alternative behavior. They are responding to a perceived threat and feel the need to do
something. Teaching them to sit or lay down when their instinct tells them to bark still allows
them to respond to the situation.

When the dog begins to bark at a passerby, tell him to sit or down. Then, when he responds
and stops barking, praise him or give him a treat. Practice
this with friends coming to the door as well. One trainer
suggested having the visitor give the dog a treat for staying
in the sit or down position instead of barking. Some dogs
may continue to bark, even as they are sitting or laying down. If that is the case, don’t treat or
praise the dog. Find another training method.

4.) TEACH YOUR DOG TO BARK
This may sound crazy to pet owners who just want their dogs to stop barking, but if a dog learns
when to bark, it may become easier to teach him when NOT to bark. Start by teaching your dog
to speak by holding a treat out of his reach and repeating the command, “Speak” If this doesn’t work,
you may try a favorite toy, or some dogs will bark if tied up just out of their owners’ reach.

Once the dog learns to bark on command, you can begin to teach him to be quiet as well.
When the dog begins barking in response to the “Speak” command, tell it “Quiet” “Stop” or
“Enough” and give him a treat when he stops. When this seems to be taking hold, attempt it
during a barking episode. If your dog stops barking, praise him emphatically or give him a treat.
For problem barkers, you will have to practice this regularly and consistently reinforce
appropriate behavior to help train the dog to resist what is a very strong instinct.

Shane, another law enforcement officer says they use this approach with the dogs he has
helped train. “We need them to bark when they’re told, but also to be quiet when it’s important
they not be noticed.” The canine units have a “quiet” or “silent” command as well as a “bark” or
“speak” signal. Both commands are practiced equally and the dogs have a clear understanding of
what each means.

5.) USE TABASCO, LEMON JUICE, OR OTHER FLAVORED DETERRENT
A 4-H trainer, has had success with the use of a flavored deterrent. She
keeps a small bottle of Tabasco in her pocket during training sessions. If she has a persistent
barker that has not responded to “Quiet” commands or other direction from its owner, Darlene
will wait for the dog to bark and then quickly open its mouth and dump a drop or two of Tabasco
in saying, “Uh, uh” or “No! Quiet!” Lemon juice, vinegar, and other distasteful, but basically
harmful, substances are also effective. See our Products List in the book’s appendix for
information on similar products that are available commercially.

Because the 4-H dogs are screened for aggressive behavior before starting the class, Darlene
doesn’t have to worry too much about getting bit, but she does have to be quick. “Timing is
important with this one,” she says. “It has to be done quickly and consistently so that the dog
knows the icky Tabasco is because of the barking.”

6.) SPRAY THE DOG WITH WATER
Use a squirt bottle or water hose to spray your dog with a stream of water if he ignores your
command to be quiet. It is best if you can get a little force behind the spray so that it is a sharp
squirt rather than a misty spray. Most dogs dislike having water in their faces and will stop
barking if you hit them with a good stream. If using a sprayer on a garden hose, be careful that
the pressure is not too strong. Avoid spraying the dog in the eyes with the hose.
Don’t make a game of this by chasing the dog or continuing to spray him after he has stopped
barking. If you are going to use this tactic, it can only be used as a negative enforcer to stop a
behavior. Anything else will confuse the dog and make the tool ineffective. Dogs who love water may
not respond negatively to this method even if you put lemon juice or vinegar in the water. If this
is the case with your dog, find another tactic.

7.) USE A LOUD NOISE TO DISTRACT OR SLIGHTLY STARTLE THE DOG
There are several different ways to use noise as a behavior modifier. One technique is to fill a
soda can with pebbles, pennies, or hard beans so that it rattles loudly when shaken or tossed. Be
sure to seal the opening with tape. When your dog does not respond to the verbal command,
shake the can loudly or toss it near your dog and repeat the command. This tool is used as a
method to correct several other behavior problems as well. It is very effective for some dogs.
You may also use a foghorn, loud whistle (not the same one you would use for training), or
some other mechanism to make a noise your dog will find slightly startling and unpleasant.
The idea is not to scare him silly, but to startle him enough to stop the barking and help him
associate the unpleasant noise with the barking. This may take several sessions to establish a
pattern. It is very important that you stay out of sight. If the dog sees you while he is barking,
this will immediately reinforce his behavior and it will be much more difficult to correct it.

If it appears that your dog begins barking again immediately after you make the noise, stop
this training technique and try another. In this case, the dog may be viewing the noise as a
positive result and barking in hopes of triggering the response.

8.) GENTLY SQUEEZE THE DOG’S MUZZLE
Place your fingers around the dogs muzzle if he barks or whines and repeat your verbal
command. You may want to add a short jerk for emphasis. Let go as soon as the dog stops, and
praise him for being quiet.

9.) IGNORE THE DOG OR WALK AWAY
If your dog is barking at you to get attention or to get you to stop what you are doing (working
on the computer, talking on the phone, watching TV), simply get up and walk away from him.
Suspending your activity to yell at him or tell him to be quiet is giving him the attention he
wanted and you succeed in rewarding the barking instead.
With any of the above techniques, it is important that you praise or treat the dog when it
stops barking in response to your command or negative enforcement.

WHEN YOU AREN’T HOME…

It is often easier to control barking when you are home and can respond immediately with a
negative reinforcement. In fact, owner absence can often be the cause of a dog’s excessive
barking. The dog often gets lonely, bored or anxious and barks to express his feelings. Some
dogs experience a condition called “separation anxiety”, which is a fear of being isolated. The
condition has many causes and can range from mild to severe. Excessive barking is just one
symptom of separation anxiety.

If you suspect or have been told that your dog is barking while you are gone, you may first want
to video tape him to see how often he barks and if there are certain things, like people or other
dogs passing by, that trigger your pet’s behavior. You may find that simply keeping the dog
away from a window or restricting his view of the street may help the situation tremendously.
The list below is a continuation of training tips to use to eliminate unwanted barking. Although
they are intended for when you are gone, some of them may also be effective for dogs that bark
when you are home.

10.) LEAVE A RADIO ON
For kennel dogs or those with separation anxiety, leaving a radio playing softly in a corner calms
the dog and makes him feel he is not alone. Cathy Gustafson and Lauren and Nancy Anderson
do this for their kennel dogs. “Well, we know the dogs are going to bark when somebody comes
to the kennel. That is just a given,” Nancy says. “Once one starts, they all bark,” Lauren
laughed. But all three kennel owners believe the radio calms the dogs and helps mask small
noises that might otherwise get one dog going. Both kennels have country music playing, but
that is more a reflection of the owners’ tastes than that of the dogs!

11.) JUST LEAVE
When you are leaving for the day or for a short trip to the store, just leave, don’t drag it out or
make a big deal by hugging the dog and getting emotional yourself. This will cause the dog to
feel more anxiety and bark sooner or more intensely. Some people offer their dogs a quick
“Goodbye”, “Be a good dog”, “Behave”, or some other brief words as they leave, but it is quick
and non-emotional. Don’t return right away if you hear the dog begin to bark. This will reward
the barking and reinforce the behavior.

12.) DRAPE THE CRATE WITH A TOWEL
If the dog is left in a crate while you are gone, it may be helpful to create a quiet, darker,
atmosphere by draping a towel or small blanket over the crate. Be sure to leave part of the crate
exposed so that enough air flows through. The idea is to reduce the lighting, noise and other
stimuli. This can also work for kennel dogs outside by putting up a tarp or wood barrier on the side
of the kennel that gets the most traffic. If the dog can’t see people walking by, he is less likely to bark.

13.) LEAVE INTERESTING TOYS WITH THE DOG
If the dog is barking from boredom or anxiety, toys will help keep him occupied. Be sure to buy
veterinarian approved toys that will not splinter or get stuck in the dog’s throat or stomach. See
our list of recommended toys in the Product List for suggestions.

14.) A SELF-ACTIVATING NOISE MAKER
Purchase a noisemaker that is self-activated by a dog’s barking. The technique is similar to that
described in step 6 above, but you don’t have to be there to make it work.

If you have given in to your dog’s barking at some point, or reinforced the behavior by petting
him to try and calm him, be aware that his behavior will likely get worse before it gets better.
You have already taught him that barking gets him what he wants, and he will first think he
needs to simply try harder to overcome your resistance.

It can be very difficult to train a dog to stop barking, but be patient and stick with it. Remember,
consistency is the key.

Information on separation anxiety in dogs and puppies

Earlier, we mentioned separation anxiety as a cause for excessive barking.
Separation anxiety is the fear or dislike of isolation. In addition to excessive barking, symptoms
include destructive behavior, such as chewing and scratching immediately upon the owner’s
departure, inappropriate potty behaviors, and overly animated greeting behavior for an extended
period of time after the owner returns.
Separation anxiety is often the result of a traumatic experience the dog had early on in life. It
can be caused by any of the following:
Premature separation from its mother as a young pup

A sudden change of environment combined with a bad experience, such as a pup who gets
left at a kennel during its first thunderstorm

A sudden change in owner’s lifestyle, such as a different work schedule which results in less
time spent with the dog

The addition of a new baby or another pet

A long-term absence from a family member, such as a death in the family, a divorce, or a
child leaving for college

Puppies being raised in a pet shop and not having a chance to bond with a human early on

That doesn’t mean that dogs who have these types of experiences will end up with separation
anxiety. Some dogs have personalities that make them more sensitive to trauma. And there are
varying degrees of separation anxiety, which can range from a dog who follows his owner
around the house from room to room as a departure draws near, to a dog that destroys the house
or defecates on his owner’s bed or shoes while his owner is away.

When a dog with separation anxiety is left alone, he begins to worry that something bad will
happen or that the owner is not coming back. Different dogs respond in different ways, but their
anxiety usually reaches a peak within 30 minutes of their owners’ departures.

If you suspect your dog has separation anxiety, contact a local trainer or veterinarian
for more information

All dogs are likely to run after rabbits, children on bikes, and other similar stimuli. It is in their
nature and you will have to work hard to teach them not to run under these circumstances. Also
females in heat and male dogs on the scent of a female will be very hard to keep at home. Spaying or
neutering your dog can go a long way toward solving running problems. If you want to keep your dog
intact for breeding purposes or because of personal preference, be sure to keep females confined
while they are in season. And you will have to keep a close eye on an intact male dog in almost
every situation. You never know when a female in the neighborhood will come into heat.

Running off under occasional circumstances is different from dogs that run away every chance
they get. There are several reasons that dogs become runners. First, this is a natural progression
for a dog that learns she doesn’t have to come when called or especially for a dog that gets
punished when she comes back.

A dog also may run off if she hasn’t learned where the territory boundaries are. Dogs don’t
understand property lines so you have to teach them where the allowable area is. As a dog
becomes known as a runner, she is rarely let outside to play freely and consequently bolts the
minute she gets the chance. If her owners chase her when this happens, that only adds to the fun,
and it becomes a game.

Some dog owners simply put up a fence. Chain link works best but can be expensive, especially
with a big yard. But anything that provides a barrier will help slow your
dog down and teach her where the yard ends. Underground fencing with an electric collar is
another option, and we are mentioning it here despite the fact that it involves a slight amount of
pain for the dog. Because running off is such a dangerous behavior for a dog and can often result
in canine fatalities, this more aggressive method seemed worth noting as a last resort. However,
Spaying or neutering your dog can go a long way toward solving running problems.

it is expensive and is not always effective, as the Makenzies found out. And that doesn’t solve
the problem when you want to take your dog with you to the country. You and your dog will
both be much better off if you can find something that works for you from the methods listed
below.

How To Keep Your Dog From Running Away When Let Loose

1.) TEACH YOUR DOG WHERE THE BOUNDARIES ARE
A dog that is new to your home or who has demonstrated a problem with running needs to know
where her boundaries are. While she does need to learn who’s boss and how far she can push,
we are talking literal boundaries here, as in property lines or the area in which you want your dog
to stay.
Once you have established the area in your mind, put your dog on a leash and walk her around
the boundary. Keep the leash lose enough that she can cross the line, and if she does this, give
her a sharp jerk and issue a verbal command such as “Get back,” “Far enough” or “No. Home.”
When she gets back within the approved area, give her a pat or some words of praise.
Walk around the area several times, each time letting your dog have more slack in the lead but
correcting her when she crosses the line. If you have a fence line or row of shrubs along your
property border, your dog will likely get the hang of it rather quickly. But if the line is
imaginary, it will take weeks or months before your dog will fully understand where her
boundaries are. Don’t allow her the opportunity to run off. Once the dog realizes she can do
this, the behavior will be very difficult to correct. Do not let your dog off the leash or run line
until you are certain that she will stay nearby or come back when called .
Even after things seem well established, your dog may begin to wander slightly.
The first time you see this happen, get her back on the leash and
spend some time walking the property line again.

2.) MAKE YOUR YARD A FUN PLACE TO BE
If you want your dog to stay in the yard, you have to make it a fun place to be. If your dog feels
like the yard is a prison, she will try to escape. Play with her there, keep toys outside for her,
give her treats and perhaps even feed her outside. Bring a doggy friend over to the yard to play
(be sure this is not a dog who will run off, thus compounding the problem).
Is something scaring your dog and making her run off? Observe the area to see if there are
loud noises, blankets flapping in the breeze, doors slamming, a car engine being revved. All of
these occurrences can be frightening for a dog and may make her want to run from the area.

3.) BE SURE YOUR DOG GETS PLENTY OF EXERCISE
Dogs that are bored or too full of energy will tend to run off when given the chance. They have
gotten tired of waiting for you to meet their play needs and they take matters into their own
hands. If you don’t have a fenced yard, find someone who does and whose dog also needs some
playtime. Or take your dog to a daycare center like Cathy Gustafson’s Mud Puppies. The dogs
that go to her facility have a large indoor area to run and play in with other dogs. All activity is
supervised, and quiet time in a crate is an option for dogs that get tired out or over stimulated. A
weekly socialization class helps tremendously, but is not enough exercise. Your dog needs to get
out each day. If you don’t have an area for your dog to run free, take her on a walk everyday and
give her a long leash for part of the time. It is important that your dog’s fun times focus on you,
not on running freely, out of your site while off the leash.
One pet care professional told of a woman who lived in an apartment with her dog. In order
to exercise her dog, she bought a 40-foot length of rope and a sturdy stake to hold it in the
ground. She took her dog to the county park several times each week, where she staked her dog
securely in an open area and played fetch and Frisbee, being careful not to throw the toy too far
and cause the dog to run to the end of the lead. She also brought other toys and let the dog roam
and play in his large circular area, staying within his reach at all times. With a little creativity
and commitment, you can accommodate your dog’s needs. If you can’t provide your dog with
these basic necessities, you should rethink pet ownership all together.

4.) PLAY HIDE AND SEEK WITH YOUR DOG
This approach was described in the previous section on teaching your dog to come when called.
It is also effective for dealing with dogs that run off. By teaching your dog to look for you when
she can’t see you, this helps a dog to learn to stay within eyesight.
The basic concept involves hiding from your dog and then calling her to come find you. You
can use the “Come” command or something more specific to bringing the dog back within
eyesight, such as “Come back” or “Find me.” Most dogs get a huge kick out of looking for their
owners. They can hear their voices, but can’t see them and it drives them crazy and makes them
want to get to the bottom of the mystery. They experience a sense of satisfaction and pride when
they find you, and eventually your dog will to learn to stay where she can see you, or at least
come find you when she realizes you are gone.

This approach is ideal for the Makenzies whose dog thinks running away is fun. By replacing
it with an even better game, they eliminate Tipper’s desire to run off. Plus the children can be
taught to play the game properly, thus adding additional reinforcement and practice. And if
Tipper learns to stay within eyesight, she can romp and play up at their hunting land without
getting into trouble. The Makenzies should try this at home until they feel she is ready to try it at
their land, and then only with Tipper still on the leash until it is clear she will not run off.

5.) ENLIST THE HELP OF A FRIEND OR NEIGHBOR
Several of our contributors suggested having a friend or neighbor hide behind a building or tree
in an area where your dog often crosses out of your yard. When the dog comes near, the helper
jumps out shouting or blowing a horn to scare the dog back home. If there is no building nearby
to hide behind, have your helper cover up with a sheet or blanket. It is important that the dog not
see the person ahead of time or she may run to that area to say hello, rather than as an act of
running off.

We suggest using this method as a last resort and NEVER with shy or nervous dogs. The
concern we have with this approach is that the dog might bolt and take off in the wrong
direction. Obviously this is not a good method for a dog that is afraid of people or nervous
outside.

6.) USE A DUAL LEASH APPROACH
Use two leashes on your dog, one her normal walking leash and another a long lead at least
fifteen feet in length but no more than fifty. When you unclip the first leash, the dog will likely
think it is free and attempt to run off. You can use the second leash to guide her and help her
understand how far you are willing to let her roam. As she is running, call her back using the
commands you have established.

If your dog is a bolter who takes off like a shot as soon as the leash is off, be sure to have a
good hold on the second lead. You may also want to wear gloves to protect your hands and
improve your grip. The last thing you want is for your dog to be running through the
neighborhood or woods trailing a twenty-foot lead. Try to soften the jolt when she reaches the
end of the leash. You do not want to injure the dog. Just coming up short will be enough of a
surprise for her.

If your dog wanders too far or takes off, use the long lead to bring her back to you, using the
established commands and praising her when you have taken a hold of her collar. Continue this
exercise until your dog no longer runs to the end of the lead and returns to you when called.
Then try removing the long lead while in an enclosed area. If you dog still stays nearby and
responds to your commands, you can practice the exercises until you feel ready to give it a try in
the open. For your first attempt, it is best to take your dog to a safe, familiar place where she
will not be hurt or lost if she does run off.

Don’t chase the dog!

If you are foolish enough to let your untrained dog off the leash, or if a training accident
happens, don’t chase after your dog. Continue to call her back to you in the same tone of voice
you normally use, or have a backup plan such as one of the techniques listed below. It can be
nerve-wracking to just let the dog go, but dashing across the grass will likely make her run faster.
If the dog does not come back in several minutes, or you know from past experience that she will
be gone for some time, get on a bike, in your vehicle, or start out walking. Have special toys and
treats that your dog is fond of and calmly try to locate her. Once you do, bend down and
nonchalantly call her to you. If she comes, praise her gently and get her home. You don’t want
to give her big rewards or she may think she is being praised for running off, but you don’t want
to scold her – after all she did eventually come back to you.

If you are not able to reclaim your dog the first few times, you will have to decide if you want to
continue or let her return home on her own. This will have to be a personal decision based on
your location and safety factors, your dog’s past behavior, your town’s or city’s leash laws, etc.
If safety concerns result in the need for you to chase and tackle the dog, get it over with quickly
and put the leash on the dog without a word. Don’t praise or scold. Handle the situation in as
neutral a manner as possible. It should only take one incident like this to convince you that
training is needed and that there will be no reckless off-leash time for many months to come.

There is nothing more frustrating than needing or wanting your dog to come to you for kenneling,
grooming, turning in for the night, getting ready to leave, or simply for attention, only to have him
ignore you, plop down in the grass, or go the other way.

A dog that does not come when called either hasn’t learned what that means or hasn’t been taught that he has to listen to the command.

“If you say it, mean it. And if you mean it, enforce it.” This is good advice, no matter which of the
methods listed below you use to correct this problem. Don’t call your dog if you really don’t
need him to come to you, and if you do call him, make sure he comes to you EVERY time so
that he learns there are no exceptions to this rule. For a dog that loves treats, this should be a
relatively easy command to teach, as long as you are consistent.

If you have already taught your dog to NOT come, by letting it run and ignore your calls, you
will have to start over at the beginning, and will likely have to put in extra time on this exercise.
It is important that you head off this behavior before it turns into a more serious problem; that of the dog
who runs away when let off the leash.

Because many dog owners inadvertently create this recall problem themselves, we wanted to
include some things to avoid when working with your dog.

Help! My Dog Doesn’t Come When Called…

First the dont’s.

1.) DON’T FOLLOW UP THE “COME” COMMAND WITH SOMETHING UNPLEASANT
DON’T call the dog to you and then do something unpleasant like pick burrs out of his fur, clip
his toenails, scold him for chewing up your shoes, make him leave the play area, or anything else
he doesn’t like to do. This creates a negative response and teaches him to avoid coming to you.
Wait for the dog to come to you on his own or go get him. Then pet him a bit before heading in
or beginning the unpleasant activity. If you must call your dog, be sure to give him a treat and
delay for several minutes while you pet him and praise him for coming when called.

2.) DON’T PUNISH THE DOG FOR RETURNING TO YOU AFTER RUNNING OFF
If the dog runs off or doesn’t come when called, DON’T punish him when he returns, especially
if he returns in response to your calls. No matter how angry or frustrated you may feel, if you
scold the dog at this point, he will associate coming to you with punishment and will avoid it at
all costs. This issue is discussed in the section on dogs that run off, and this is where the
problem starts.

3.) DON’T CALL THE DOG AND THEN NOT FOLLOW THROUGH
The first time you call you dog and then don’t follow through by making him come to you, you
have started down the path to a behavior problem. If the dog learns he doesn’t have to comply with the command, or only has to listen sometimes (like when you are really mad), then he will have learned NOT to come when called.

It is easiest to enforce the “Come” command if you keep your dog on a leash until you are
certain he has been thoroughly trained. That way if he does not respond to your call, you can
give him a jerk on the leash or pull him to you while you praise him and give him a treat.

Now the do’s.

4.) THE PRAISE METHOD
Some pet owners do not like the idea of continually giving treats as rewards for good behavior.
There are several reasons for this line of thinking. Some worry that the dog will become
overweight. Others feel the dog should strive to please his owner, not get more food. And many
prefer not to be tied to the treat bag, dependant on it for control of their dog. There are some
valid points to these concerns, and most law enforcement dogs are trained to respond purely to
praise and a job well done. If food were too big of a motivator, criminals would be able to
distract the dog or perhaps convince it to do something in return for the treat.

However, when working with pet dogs, most trainers realize that food is a huge motivator for
the average pup and it is commonly used as a safe and effective tool. But for those who prefer
not to use treats, the Praise Method is a good tool for you in teaching your dog to come when
called.

The Praise Method is the basic recall exercise with petting and enthusiastic words as the dog’s
reward instead of a treat. You can also use a squeaky toy or other item the dog enjoys, but then
save it only for training activities. It is best if you wait until your dog is in a playful or active
mood, rather than when he has just lain down to sleep. You want him to be energetic and up for
some fun.

With your pet on a leash, sit with him in front of you a foot or so away. Pet him a few times
and then back up and issue the command, “______, come!” Fill in your dog’s name on the
blank. So for example, with Dudley, it would be “Dudley, come!” As soon as Dudley moves
toward you, back up a little bit more and encourage him to keep coming to you. When he responds,
take a hold of his collar before praising and petting him so that he learns that “come” means to be
taken into your control, not just to bound up and then jump away again. If the dog doesn’t come to you,
give a little tug on the leash, but don’t drag your dog to you or jerk him off his feet.

Practice this exercise for fifteen minutes several
times a day. If at any time the dog becomes disinterested, quit and try again later. Don’t let a
positive training session deteriorate into a power struggle or a source of frustration for you or
your dog.

As your dog begins to respond to the command, start the drill a bit further away from him and
gradually increase the distance. Eventually you will be running backwards as you call the dog to
you. The real test will come when you can have your dog outside in an enclosed area with kids,
dogs, and other distractions and still have him come to you when called. Of course if he doesn’t
comply, you will have to make sure and enforce the command.

If you like, you can add a “Sit” command at the end, so that your dog begins to learn this
action as well. The sit is usually an unspoken part of the recall exercise in obedience exercises,
along with a “finish” command, which tells your dog to move himself into the heel position and
sit down again.

5.) THE TREAT AND PRAISE METHOD
For those dog owners who are not adverse to bribing their pets with treats, the Treat With Praise
Method simply adds a treat into the mix. In this case, it is best to wait until your dog is hungry.
To test this, take a piece of food or a favorite treat and move it in front of his nose. If your dog
seems uninterested or responds half-heartedly, wait for an hour or so. But if he scrambles to try
and get a hold of the tidbit, he is ready for recall training.

This technique is performed the same way as the Praise Method, but you will need to refrain
from giving your dog treats at other times of the day. If the pup can get a snack just for nudging
you and looking cute, why should he work for a treat during training? Cathy Gustafson says she
has regular treats, like dog biscuits for when she simply wants to give the dog something good.
But she has a specially flavored meat roll, called an Oinker Roll, that she uses just for training.
“The dogs go crazy for the roll and they definitely know the difference between it and a regular
treat.” See our Product List for additional information.

Once you have your dog responding to the “Come” command every time, begin to be
selective with the treats. Only give a reward for the times that he comes quickly or sits right
away. This way you begin to perfect the exercise and wean the dog away from treats.
This method can also be very effective in teaching a dog to go into its kennel or crate. Cathy
Gustafson shared a story about her daughter who had trouble getting her dog to go into the
kennel in the morning. The daughter’s yard was not fenced and she was often in her good work
clothes when she took the dog out in the morning. Usually she would use a leash, but if things
had gone well for several days, she would try it without. Invariably, the dog would run off and
the daughter would be left to chase after it in her high heels, ending up late for work and
extremely hot under the collar.

Finally the woman decided to give the dog a piece of hot dog every time she put it in the
kennel. She did this repeatedly for a couple weeks, and when the dog was pulling on the leash in
its haste to get to the kennel, the woman decided it was time for the big test. She let the dog off
the leash and watched as it bounded to the kennel and waited to be let inside. She has never had
a problem getting the dog to kennel up since. She still uses the treat every few times as a
positive enforcer.

6.) PLAY HIDE AND SEEK WITH YOUR DOG.
After you have begun to establish recognition of the “Come” command, you can turn the training
exercise into a game. Have a friend or family member hold the dog on a leash while you go hide
around the corner or behind a bush. It doesn’t matter if the dog sees where you go. You’re not
really trying to hide. Once you’re ready, command the dog to come to you. Have the helper let the dog move
forward, holding onto the leash the entire time to begin with. When the dog finds you, praise him and give
him a treat.

Once your dog begins to show an understanding of the game, you can have the helper let go
of the leash when the dog is about five feet away from you. Eventually you can have the dog off
the leash with the helper holding the collar until you are ready. But only move to this stage when
your dog is consistently responding to the commands. If you have a fenced in yard or are
confident that your dog will not run off, you can practice this activity while working or relaxing
out in the yard. If the dog wanders where you can’t see him, give the command to come find
you. Or purposely step out of the dog’s line of vision and give the command. Be sure to praise
or treat your dog when he comes to you. Not only will your dog learn to come when called, this
activity will help encourage your dog to stay where he can see you, or at least come find you
when he realizes you are gone. This game is also effective in teaching dogs not to run off.

7.) CALL THEN RETURN TO PLAYTIME
If you have a dog that has been punished for running off or taught that coming when called
means the end of fun and games, then this exercise may help retrain the dog. Have the dog
outside on a long leash and let him wander and sniff, or have a canine friend over. Every ten or
fifteen minutes, call the dog to you, using the leash, if needed, to make him come. Once you
have the dog in your control, give him a treat, pet him for a few moments and then return him to
playtime.

Repeating this exercise will teach the dog that coming to you results in a reward and does not
mean a spanking, being put in the house, or some other negative consequence. When it IS time
to end the play activity, go to the dog and have him follow you into the house without calling
him our telling him to come.

8.) PLAY THE RATTLE GAME
Put some hard kibble or other treats in a plastic bottle and rattle them before giving one to your
dog. Do this throughout the day, eventually moving to another room before giving the bottle a
shake. Every time your dog comes to you praise him and give a treat. Your dog should eventually
associate the noise with a treat reward and will come when he hears the bottle shake. That way if he is out
in the yard, all you have to do is rattle the treat bottle and he will come running. This is another
method that works well for dogs that have been trained NOT to come with a verbal command.

9.) USE THE “COME” COMMAND FOR ANYTHING FUN
Anytime you are going to do something fun or pleasant with your dog, such as feed him, play
fetch, go for a ride in the car or a walk, etc., use the “Come” command to call him to you first.
By then offering him a pleasant activity that he likes, he begins to learn that something fun or
exciting happens when he’s called.

Some owners and trainers use a whistle in place of a voice command. The steps are basically the
same, substituting the whistle for the spoken words. If you use a training whistle instead of your mouth
to generate the sound, you will have to get in the habit of keeping the whistle on you
when you are out with your dog. Most obedience trainers use verbal commands.

When using the verbal commands, it is important to use the same tone of voice every time. The
fun, encouraging tone you use to call the dog during training does not sound the same as the
angry or exasperated one you use as your dog is running away across the neighbors yard. Dogs
are very sensitive to tone and pitch, so all members of the family also need to use not only the
same words, but also the same tone. Practice with each other to be sure everyone is on the same
page.

For new puppies, housebreaking is a matter of developing bladder control and learning where
appropriate bathroom spots are. Puppy owners need to remember that young dogs do not have
the ability to hold it as long as adult dogs. To determine a realistic expectation of how long your
puppy can wait, take its age in months and add one and that is the number of hours he or she can
usually hold it during the day.

With an older dog, medical reasons such as a bladder infection must be ruled out
before moving on to other causes of potty problems. Have your dog checked by a veterinarian
before taking any further action. If the vet gives your dog a clean bill of health, then it’s time to
look for other causes for his bad behavior. Some adult dogs will urinate in the house because
they don’t know it’s not appropriate. In some cases, the carpeting or flooring is already saturated
with pet urine, and needs to be replaced in order to avoid ongoing confusion.

In other situations, the pet may not have been taught to eliminate outside. This is called
“dirty dog syndrome” and is most common with kennel dogs and those who have been left in crates for extended periods of time with no choice but to use their crate for a bathroom. Normally dogs don’t like to soil the area where they live or sleep. But once a dog breaks this taboo out of sheer desperation, it becomes more likely that they will potty in their own space again.

Training Tips for Housebreaking Puppies and Adult Dogs

PAPER TRAINING

This method works best for dogs that are left home during the day and cannot be expected to go
that long without a bathroom break. Create a small living area for your dog and place newspaper
over the entire area. Allow your pet to potty on the papers but remove soiled papers immediately
(or as soon as you get home) and put down fresh ones. At first your dog or puppy will use the
newspapers at random, but eventually it will begin to show a preference for a certain area.

Gradually reduce the number of papers you put down, focusing your paper placement on the preferred area until the dog is consistently going on one small area. You also need to take your dog outside when possible to allow opportunities for appropriate bathroom behavior.
When you have the allowable area down to a small piece of newspaper, take that scented
portion outside and hold it down with a rock or other object while encouraging your pet to
eliminate near or on the paper. When this process has been repeated successfully several times,
you can try removing the paper from your pet’s living area. Continue to use the paper outside.
If accidents occur, revert back to papering a small area and go through the process again. Most
experts agree that you shouldn’t expert your puppy to be fully potty trained until he is at least 4
months old.

Some people who use the paper training method use the paper only as a backup. They watch
the dog closely and quickly take him outside if he begins to eliminate on the papers. As the dog
learns to go to the bathroom outside, the papers are removed and the outdoor reinforcement
continues. With all housebreaking methods, it is important to avoid accidents in other areas of
the house. The key is to teach the dog that there is an appropriate place for pottying.

THE PRAISE METHOD

Keep your dog in his living area or right within your reach and take him outside once every hour,
upon waking, after eating, etc. The timeframe can be a bit longer with adult dogs, but the key is
to avoid accidents or soiling of his living area. When you take your dog outside put him on a
leash, even if he is a puppy and you are going to carry him. The leash will help you control and
direct the dog once outside.

As you head for the door, repeat the word “outside” or some phrase that you can use
consistently to signify that it’s time to go to the bathroom. Bring your dog to the area where you
want him to eliminate. By taking your pet to the same area each time, you will teach him to go
to the bathroom in the long grass out back instead of on the path where you walk every morning.
If you are lazy or in a hurry and just take the dog outside the door, that is where he will learn to
go.

Walk your dog on a leash and pace back and forth. If you stand still, your dog may think it is
time to rest rather than get down to business. If your pet starts to eliminate, repeat a phrase such
as “go potty”, and praise calmly with a “Yes” or a “Good dog.” Getting too animated in your
praising will distract the dog from its duties. It’s okay to be a bit more expressive with your
approval as you walk back to the house. Most trainers agree that during the training phase, it is
not a good idea to let your dog off the leash or spend time playing after he finishes. The dog
needs to focus on learning to potty outside first.

This can be difficult for pet owners who work outside the home and want to take their dogs
out to play when they return home. If you are still in the potty training phase, take your dog out
to the bathroom first, return to the house for a few minutes and then go out to play. The two
activities need to stay separate in the dog’s mind until he learns the difference.
Once back inside the house after a successful trip, let the dog off the leash and allow him to
wander freely for ten or fifteen minutes to start and increase this time with each success. It is
important to avoid accidents unless you are right there to catch the dog in the act and bring them
outside calmly but quickly. When your dog gets to the point where he lets you know he needs
out, you have succeeded in your efforts. Occasional mishaps may occur but that is to be
expected for the first few months.

If your dog does not eliminate while outside, continue walking for a maximum of 5 minutes.
Any longer, and the focus of the training is lost. Return back to the house and put the dog in his
crate or at the very least, a short leash attached to you so you can monitor his actions. Try again
in an hour. If you keep a close eye on your pet, don’t allow him to potty in the house, and return
outside frequently, your pet will eventually have a successful experience that you can praise and
encourage.

THE TREAT & PRAISE METHOD

dogs that are respond better to food than to attention from their owners. In addition to praising
the dog when he potties outside, give him a treat immediately after. Don’t wait until you get
back in the house, or the dog will have difficulty associating the treat with the action of
eliminating outside. Once your dog is housetrained, it is still a good idea to give him a treat
every now and then when he finishes his business, as this serves as a good reinforcement tool.

BELL RINGING

This technique is more about teaching your dog to let you know when he has to go out. Some
dogs are very vocal and will whine and bark when they need to go outside. But other dogs
haven’t been taught how to tell you, or they quietly go sit by the door and wait for you to notice
them. This is one issue with Snickers, the dog in our example. He was a kennel dog first, and
then Claudia kept him in a crate, so he never learned any ways to express himself in this area.
Teaching dogs how to let you know that they need out also strengthens their understanding that
outside is the place to potty.

Hang a cowbell or strand of jingle bells on the door handle or attach them next to the sliding
door that you use to let your dog outside. When you first begin training him, jingle the bells as
you go out and ask them, “Do you need to go out?” Repeat this every time for a few days and
then switch to using your dog’s paw or nose to ring the bell on the way out, again asking if he
needs to go outside. Keep up this routine until your dog takes over on his own. Some people
prefer to teach the dog to scratch at the door or bump the door handle. Some intelligent, attentive
dogs will make this connection themselves as they repeatedly watch you grab the doorknob to
open the door.

In addition to techniques discussed in these five methods, our trainers and pet care providers also
suggest feeding your dog at the same time each day, sticking with one brand of food as much as
possible, and limiting water and treats at bedtime. If your puppy whines to go out in the middle
of the night and you are certain the need is legitimate, accommodate him, but make the trip
short and sweet. NO PLAYING or you will teach your dog to wake you up each night to
have some fun.

No matter which method of housebreaking you choose, punishment, such as spanking or rubbing
the dog’s nose in the urine, is not recommended as it can lead to other unwanted behavior.

Don’t stick your pup’s nose in the potty unless you want him to eat it. Other trainers agree; this is what you would do if you wanted to encourage a dog to sniff or eat something new. And that is definitely what you want to have happen here, so avoid following this outdated and incorrect training behavior.

Remember, your dog is not behaving improperly as a means of getting revenge. He is simply
confused about what is expected. Praising him for correct behavior is the key. In the case of
Nugget, Claudia admitted that she often spoke in a harsh tone to her pup and expressed
frustration while outside for a potty break. “It was late or cold and I wanted him to hurry up,”
she explained. Her feelings are understandable, but she inadvertently turned his outside time into
something stressful and unpleasant.

It is also important to keep in mind that dogs do not have the capability to reason and connect
seemingly unrelated activity. If you interrupt your dog from a nap to spank him for a mess he
made earlier, he will have difficulty associating his improper behavior with your corrective
actions. He will think he is in trouble for taking a nap. You need to catch him in the act.
Regardless of the training technique you use, the best way to housetrain your dog is to avoid
accidents by proactive, consistent action, monitoring your dog and insuring that he has plenty of
opportunities to go outside and get it right! It may be time-consuming, but it will be worth it in
the end.